Pappa Col Pomodoro
Photography Photography by Becky Nunes.
In the autumn ‘Pappa’ is served hot, but in warmer weather it’s often served at room temperature. Virtually every familyrun trattoria in Florence serves this traditional dish, some substitute the onion and garlic with a leek, others insist garlic and no onion. Like many aspects of the Italian cuisine and indeed the culture, it is often tricky to arrive at a consensus! Tuscan bread is always best fresh, hence the host of dishes that require ‘yesterday’s’ bread.
Serves: 6 - 8
INGREDIENTS
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, approximately
1 medium red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 or 2 small dried chillies, chopped
1 tsp tomato paste
700gm tomatoes, peeled and chopped or sieved ‘passata di pomodoro’
1 ¼ litres hot chicken stock
400gm yesterdays Tuscan bread, sliced
20 fresh basil leaves
sea salt
METHOD
Heat the oil in a large, heavy based pan, add the onion and sauté over a moderate heat until softened.
Add the garlic and chilli to the pan and cook a further 2-3 minutes. Add the tomato paste, the ‘passata’ or chopped peeled tomatoes, a little salt and 10 shredded basil leaves, cover, bring to the boil then reduce the heat. Simmer 15-20 minutes.
Add the hot stock. When it comes back to the boil add the bread, cover and cook for 15 minutes stirring often. Remove from heat and allow to rest for at least half an hour. Stir well before and during reheating. Drizzle some quality extra virgin olive oil on each portion and garnish with sliced basil. No parmesan!
Serves 6 to 8 as a first course
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We start by sharing what’s on the dish team’s radar, what we’re watching, listening to and reading. Harry Butterfield puts a twist on his Nonna’s agnolotti, Malissa Fedele reminds us of the importance of fibre, and Phoebe Holden fulfils a long-held dream, sitting down with Yotam Ottolenghi. Autumn is an abundant time, we make the most with pumpkin, kūmara, cabbage, cauliflower, feijoas, apples and pears. We’re dishing up dinners for two, including a Chicken Dumpling Lasagne, alongside easy weeknight meals. We honour our mums, revisit timeless classics, and add a little baking challenge. This issue, we encourage you to slow down, to enjoy writing your shopping list, and spending time in the kitchen. Because even when life feels relentless, there’s always space to share something delicious.



