Kitchen Shelf: issue 104

Maddie Ballard samples two new must-reads for the savvy cook.

Breadsong

by Kitty and Al Tait, Bloomsbury, $43

When depression struck English teenager Kitty Tait, baking was the only thing that made her feel good. Soon, she and her dad Al were turning out more loaves than they could eat at home, so they began offering it to neighbours. Soon enough, they had opened their own bakery, Orange Bakery, in their tiny town of Watlington, near Oxford – and now some of their best-loved recipes have been compiled into a gorgeous book. Whether you’re after a classic hearty white loaf, foolproof focaccia, a step-by-step guide to sourdough or a little something sweet, it’s all here, interspersed with the heartening story of Kitty’s recovery. Personal favourites? Happy Bread, a brioche-style dough smothered in caramel before baking, has an aroma to die for, and I loved the Taits’ Next-Level Chelsea Buns, fragrant with apple and raisins and a surprising but perfect touch of garam masala. Plus, if you’re in the mood for something savoury, it’s hard to go past The Comfort, a country-style loaf loaded with Marmite for an addictively umami crust.

The Cook You Want to Be

by Andy Baraghani, Ebury, $65

American-Iranian chef Andy Baraghani cut his teeth working at the famous Chez Panisse restaurant, and as a creator of viral recipes at Bon Appétit (until the brand imploded in 2020). But with this book, his first, he proves that he’s a thoughtful, inventive cook in his own right. Stylish and shot through with Andy’s trademark touches (plenty of lemon; heaps of herbs), these recipes put flavour first and promise simply beautiful plates of food. The emphasis is on vegetables and pulses throughout, often with a Middle Eastern touch – Chickpea Cacio e Pepe with Caramelised Lemon, anyone? And who could turn down Sweet-and-Sour Caramelised Squash with Pistachio Za’atar? But carnivores won’t go hungry either, with generous chapters on fish and meat. In my household, we especially loved the Chile and Citrusy Yoghurt-brined Roast Chicken. And I’ll definitely be revisiting Andy’s ‘Snacks to share… or not’ chapter: Fluffy (and Crisp) Flatbread, preferably dipped in Smoky Eggplant Dip scattered with crunchy garlic, is next on the cards.