127: WHERE WE'RE EATING AND DRINKING

There’s no rest for the food-obsessed… even when the dish team is on holiday, we’re still checking out the hottest spots in our vacation destinations. Below, we share our fave finds, from the places we’ve been to on our time off.

Room 4 Dessert, Ubud, Bali
If you are ever taking a trip to Bali, I absolutely recommend adding Room 4 Dessert — a restaurant by New York pastry chef Will Goldfarb — to your itinerary! It’s a 15- to 21-course gastronomic experience on the outskirts of Ubud, set amongst gorgeous gardens, and with a focus on innovative desserts. Room 4 Dessert makes the most of local ingredients and medicinal herbs, and each dish is as beautiful as it is delicious. The tasting menus come out in three ‘acts’, and you move to a new room/setting for your savoury snacks, then your 5–7 dessert courses, then petit fours. The tasting menus cost between $NZ150–200 per person, with drinks pairings, which is very reasonable for a full world-class foodie experience! The quirky cocktails were a highlight as well. 

Clamato, Paris, France
We’ve made sure to stop by Clamato each time we’ve visited Paris, it’s the little seafood sister to lauded bistro Septime, sitting right next door at 80 rue de Charonne. Unlike Septime and its six-month waitlist, they don’t take bookings, so if you arrive just before they open you can usually get a table. 

La Poule au Pot, Paris, France
While it’s definitely a special treat kind of place, I have to mention La Poule au Pot. This is the best meal my partner and I have ever had, so good we pinched a menu and had it framed. Opened in 1935, it’s an institution celebrating generous, old-school French cooking. Expect dessert trolleys and all the classics, served atop silver platters and cute pink tablecloths. Though it’s a go-to for the likes of Francis Ford Coppola and Mick Jagger, it feels comfortable and easy, with kind service and loose locals lunching. Don’t overdress or expect sharing plates, the meals are hearty. 

Copenhagen round-up, Denmark
I spent a few weeks in Copenhagen last year on a work trip and managed to power through a decent number of spots on my list. I can’t possibly pick one, so here’s a quickfire round of favourites: dinner at Osteria 16 (@osteria16), where there are no menus, just eight courses of perfect, seasonal produce served by staff wearing great shoes. Bølle med ost (bun with cheese!) absolutely everywhere, every day for breakfast, my favourites were from Andersen & Maillard (@andersenmaillard) and Hart Bageri (@hartbageri). Slurp Ramen (@slurp.ramen) and Poulette (@poulettech) for quick but delicious noodles and burgers. La Banchina (@labanchina) for a swim, seafood and lots of natural wine. And of course, Frederik Bille Brahe’s Atelier September (@atelierseptember) for breakfast and Apollo Bar (@apollo_bar) for dinner, I’m sorry to say both really are that good, and absolutely worth lining up for.

Taian Table, Shanghai, China
Shanghai is home to many of my fondest food memories, but the one that stands out most is Taian Table. A restaurant well deserving of all three of its Michelin stars, it offers both dinner and a show, with chefs cooking at the centre of the space. Guests are seated at a counter surrounding the open kitchen, creating an intimate and interactive dining experience. The meal unfolds as a tasting menu of 10 or 12 courses, and each dish is as beautiful and delicious as the last. The cuisine blends European classics with Asian influences, resulting in creations that are both refined and inventive. My highlights included the sea urchin with smoked egg custard and a palate cleanser of fennel sorbet.

Saigon Street Eats, Saigon, Vietnam
The Saigon Street Eats tour provides a brilliant introduction to the city’s street food scene. We were picked up on motorbikes after dark, ponchos on, to weave through Saigon’s bustling back alleys in torrential rain, thunder and lightning (sorry Mum). We stopped to eat with locals at street stalls, vendors who’ve spent years perfecting their craft. Exceptional bánh xèo, a pot of clams in lemongrass broth I still dream about, conch in sweet garlic butter, bún chả, and plenty more along the way. I’d highly recommend starting any trip with a street food tour, it gives you the confidence to get out there and try local spots on your own. saigonstreeteats.com

The Winding Stair, Dublin, Ireland
The Winding Stair ticks a lot of boxes when it comes to a Dublin dining experience. It started out in the 1970s as a bookshop and café named after a Yeats poem, becoming a hub for Irish creatives. In its current iteration the bookshop has been incorporated into a contemporary restaurant that continues to prioritise Irish culture in the form of Irish cuisine. Now, many consider that Ireland doesn’t really have its own cuisine (insert fried potato joke here), but much like here in Aotearoa, the magic in Irish restaurant kitchens happens because of the prime quality of the produce. The Winding Stair is a great representation, featuring numerous Irish artisans in every dish. The Winding Stair Fish Plate, showcasing some of Ireland’s world-class seafood, is a must-order.

Clarke’s, Cape Town, South Africa
This is always my first stop the moment I’m back in my hometown. More than just a meal, it’s a ritual that’s part of every trip home. No matter how much time has passed, it’s something that never changes, and never disappoints. The signature beef cheeseburger is the heart of it all. That same juicy, no-frills smash patty, layered with melted cheese and pickles, wrapped in that iconic croissant-esque bun. The bun is the stuff of legends. Every bite is rich, a little messy, and deeply comforting. Some might say that suggesting a trip to Cape Town just to try the burger is a bit extreme — I beg to differ.

Chez Janou, Paris, France
I’m heading off on my honeymoon at the end of the month and I’m so excited to be going back to Chez Janou in Paris! It’s tucked into a beautiful little spot just a short walk from Le Marais. We went a few years ago and it was so divine — really traditional French food, done simply but well. We loved those tiny black-shelled European mussels grilled with wild garlic butter, rich chocolate mousse, and ratatouille topped with jammy poached eggs. It’s definitely a bit of a tourist favourite, but the food is unfussy, generous, and genuinely delicious!